The Unknown Hague …
The Hague? What about it? Amsterdam is another matter, a place swarming
with tourists, well-known for its museums, channels – and – too much (perhaps)
frivolity. But the Hague is different, and practically unknown to most people. It’s a
kind of a Canberra sitting somewhere between the two giants, Melbourne and Sydney, for
ever striving for priority… In fact, the Hague is unique – in the sense that it is the
only city on the globe whose name is used with the definite article! Frankly speaking, I
don’t know why. Or, rather, I haven’t yet found out – believe me, I asked this
question to lots and lots of the Dutch. No definite answer yet…
The history of the Hague dates back approximately to 1250 when a
modest-looking hunting castle was erected at this very place; later it was surrounded by
other buildings. A fishermen’s village appeared not far away; now it is a fashionable
sea resort near the Hague. The city itself became well-known during the reign of William
of Orange (i.e. after 1580) who is traditionally regarded as the founding father of the
Dutch nation. William of Orange gradually turned the Hague into the diplomatic centre of
the Republic of the United Netherlands.
The ancient Hague stands apart among other Dutch cities since it has
always been the seat of the Government. Since time immemorial its Knights’ Hall has been
the pride of local aristocracy, its Parliament was the soul of the Revolution, Dutch
Republic and the empire born by the Sea. Statues surrounding the Palace Lake remind us of
national valour acquired through constant labour and toil. The heart of the Hague is woven
from the conglomeration of palaces, governmental residences and ministries.
The Hague is a cosy place resting among the meadows and successfully
hiding from the stern North Sea behind huge coastal dunes. Local beeches are most inviting
and stretch for about 20 kilometres… Strangely enough, no one ever regarded the Hague as
a sea resort, but here you can swim, surf, kite – or just walk or cycle (cycling
serpentine among the dunes amounts to 250 km (!) turning the coastal area into a gigantic
quilt from a bird’s eye view). The seascapes of the Hague inspired many outstanding
artists, its orchestras mesmerized the audience, its dancers glorified its name… Parks
full of roses’ aroma, palaces half-hidden in haziness, proud memorials make the city
exceptional, unique. The Hague emanates noble, majestic benevolence characteristic of the
intellectual, rather than industrial centre.
There is much that historically unites Russia and the Netherlands. We
all know about Zaandam where young Peter worked as an ordinary worker. Certain ties
connect Russia specifically with the Hague. The daughter of the Russian emperor Paul,
Great Princess Anna Pavlovna, became the wife of Prince William, the future king of the
Netherlands William II. As her marriage present from her brother Alexander she received no
less than … a chapel from the battlefield at Waterloo. This Russian orthodox church
still welcomes believers and guests in the Hague. There you can find Anna Pavlovna’s
golden cup and priests’ robes embroidered by herself in person. All of these treasures
are carefully preserved and respected.
The Hague won its authority more than a century ago when the quiet pace
of life was suddenly broken by a major event. In 1899 the city hosted the First
International Peace Conference initiated by the Russian tsar Nicholas II. On May 18, 1899,
the birthday of tsar Nicholas II and the opening day of the Conference, there was a solemn
church service held in Anna Pavlovna’s chapel to celebrate the two events. A Russian
diplomat De Staal presided at the Hague Conference. It is impossible to overestimate the
contribution of this Conference into the development (and, in fact, formation) of
humanitarian law (in the spirit of Alexander II) and the establishment of the mechanism of
solving disputes on the international level in the Arbitration Court. Russian tsar
Alexander III in this sense served as a model for Europe (the proof of it being a huge
canvass depicting the Peacemaker). The “soul” of the Hague Conference became the
Russian jurist Fedor Martens who specialized in international law.
The 1899 Conference turned out to be symbolic and determined the new
status of the city as the international centre for the administration of justice. The
greatest output of the Peace Conference became the establishment of the Arbitration Court
that operated on a permanent basis. Once elegant “wonder town” of the epoch of Anna
Pavlovna turned into a UNO centre. Now the character of the Hague is embodied primarily in
the Palace of the Peace which houses the Arbitration Court, and starting from 1920 also
became the seat of the International Court of Justice. The building itself is gorgeous; as
all international centres, it is a depositary of numerous presents from different
countries. The pearl of the collection is undoubtedly the Russian gift – a huge jasper
vase.
Thus, the quiet, idyllic, God-favoured place became the international
crossroads. But it preserved its dignity, diligence and self-respect. I may consider
myself supremely blessed since I had a chance to visit the Hague more than once. I have a
Dutch friend from a diplomatic family who temporarily resides in Moscow. She gets up at
5.30 every day. When I asked her why, she told me this: “Back home in the Hague I used
to have finished washing the pavement in front of my house by 6 in the morning. My yard
and my house I was able to clean later…” Now she is studying Russian starting from 6
a.m. every day: strangely enough, the embassy staff is not allowed to wash the pavement
here.
Kirill Sushon, School No. 27
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