Exploring Wales
Wales was conquered by the English, but is has remained culturally
distinct from England through its language and traditions. By the 8th century most of the
Celts in England had been driven to the western peninsula by the Anglo-Saxon invaders. In
AD 779 a huge earth wall called “Offa’s Dyke” was constructed to keep them out of
England. These Celts, called Welsh (from the Anglo-Saxon word for “foreigner”), lived
in the valleys between the high mountains of Wales.
The English conquest of Wales was completed in 1282 by the English King
Edward I. He started the tradition of giving the title “Prince of Wales” to the eldest
son of the English King. In 1536, during the reign of Henry VIII, Wales was taken under
English administration and Welsh representatives entered the English parliament. Welsh law
was abolished and English was established as the official language for any legal
proceedings.
However in some parts of Wales, especially in the North, Welsh is the
only language the population speak. Many road signs are in two languages and at schools it
is Welsh that is taught first, with English being the children’s second language. The
Welsh language is now also used for a Welsh television channel.
Let us travel about Wales first, visit some of its most interesting
places and then speak about some of its festivals.
Cardiff is the capital of Wales and is its financially and industrially
most important city. Hundreds of thousands of the inhabitants of Wales live and/or work
there. In the roads leading to the docks of Cardiff you can find, much as in English
Liverpool, a lot of great commercial parts, with great ocean-going ships.
Cathay’s Park, the centre of the civic life of the city, with its
exceptionally fine groups of municipal buildings and its National Museum of Wales, is a
splendid place.
In the Museum you will find a brilliant collection of Welsh art and
handicraft, both ancient and modern.
A few miles to the north of Cardiff lies Caerphilly, noted both for its
cheese and for its fine, old Edwardian castle.
Swansea marks the end of the industrial region of the south Wales
coastline. And, as if to make amends for the desecration of so much natural beauty, the
charming little Cower peninsula, on the neck of which Swansea stands, offers the delights
of its wooded landscape and deserted beaches.
The south western part of the peninsula is English-speaking, with English place names
such as Overton, Pilton-green, Fernhill and Knelston and the inhabitants refer to those
living in the “Welsheries”.
Several ruined castles, such as Raglan Castle in
Gwent, prove the importance of ancient days. Raglan Castle is thought to have been built
on the site of an earlier fortified structure, although there was little trace of this
remaining when sir William Thomas began the construction of the present castle around
1430. The great tower, which is hexagonal in plan, dates from this period. With walls over
3m thick and surrounded by a water-filled moat, it was a fortress in its own right,
separated from the rest of the castle by a drawbridge. Sir William died in 1445 and the
castle was largely completed by his son, Sir William Herbert, Earl of Pembroke. The
residential quarters were improved and extended during the 16th century, and large
Elizabethan windows in the great hall can be seen in the courtyard. The castle was
captured after a siege during the Civil War in 1646, then mined with explosives and
burned. It was used as a quarry for building stone until the 18th century, but enough
remains for the strength and design of the castle to be appreciated.
At Llaurhidition stands an enormous cromlech known as Arthur’s Stone.
It is said locally that at night it comes down to the sea to quench its thirst.
Swansea itself is a town largely developed to oil storage and the
trans-shipment of coal.
Conway plunges us into mediaeval times. The massive, tall walls, with
their 21 semicircular towers, still encircle the town as they did when, nearly seven
centuries ago, Edward I built them in the crusade to pacify the Welsh.
In St. Mary’s Church, formerly part of Conway Abbey, is a tombstone
with a remarkable inscription:
“Here lieth Nicholas Hookes of Conway, who was the 41st child of his
father William Hookes and the father of 27 children; who died March 20, 1637”.
Situated in the estuary of the River Conway, Conway is indeed a
beautiful town. From the castle walls you can look down at the yachts lying at anchor in
the river, for Conway is a well-known centre for sea and river craft.
Like all the other towns in the charming Vale of the Conway River,
Llanrivst is rich in the beauty of the surrounding countryside. Mountains, lakes,
waterfalls and tumbling streams are at hand.
Snowdon is the highest mountain in England and Wales and can be
ascended by foot or by mountain railway from Llanberis. It is, I think, hardly possible to
describe the magnificence of the view on a clear day.
Betws-y-Coed has been so praised by writers, so sketched, painted, and
photographed, that it is astonishing to find that it is even lovelier – than you had
been led to believe. It is set in a small green valley, and all around are crags and
wooded hills. Owing to its position, it gives an aspect of the Snowdon country that is
quite unusual, for although it is within a few miles of the towering peaks, one can see
only the hills directly surrounding it.
In Orme’s Bay, between the rocky precipices of Great Orme’s Head
and Little Orme’s Head, Llandudno (near Conway) pursues its successful career as the
most frequented of all Welsh seaside resorts. It is a favourite spot for visitors from the
north of England and the Midlands. To great Orme’s Head, a hill actually, some climb;
but others prefer to take the tram. A superb sandy beach; a magnificent situation in the
shelter of Orme’s Bay; safe, first-class bathing facilities; theatres and cinemas making
it an up-to-date seaside resort; proximity to the valley of the Conway River, actually
within easy distance by road or rail; is worth visiting, especially for those who are
interested in mountains and ancient towns so different from our modern civilisation.
Llangollen is indeed a fitting setting for a romantic fugue. Surrounded
by tree-covered hills it lies in a hollow by the side of the River Dee. Its charm is
gentle, and one can well understand the enthusiasm of Hazlitt and Ruskin who thought that
Llangollen was the “most beautiful little town in Wales”. Many visitors to the town
come especially for International Eisteddfod, held there each August. It is a festival of
Welsh music, dance, poetry and songs. Eisteddfod is a Welsh word which means ‘a
meeting’. Many choirs participating there sing one song because Eisteddfod is a
competition too. At the end of the festival, the winners are chosen. The culminating event
is the choosing of the winning poet, and so intense is the nationwide interest in this
ceremony that special newspaper editions are snatched up eagerly by those, who, unable to
go to the Eisteddfod, follow the proceedings with the anxiety that in England is reserved
for dog races or Derby.
A visit to the Welsh National Eisteddfod is unforgettable, for there
you will realise the passionate devotion of the Welsh to the things they have guarded so
jealously throughout the centuries. You will hear them sing in Welsh, see them dance in
the Welsh national costumes, when women, for example, wear tall black hats!
The National Eisteddfod takes place at other sites of South Wales (even years) and
North Wales (uneven years).
A. Questions on the text:
1. When was Wales conquered by the English?
2. Has it remained culturally different from England?
3. Are the Welsh of Celtic origin?
4. Do they try to preserve their language and traditions? How?
5. What is the capital of Wales?
6. Can you mention any of its places of interest?
7. Which town to the north of Cardiff is known for its cheese?
8. What does Swansea mark?
9. Are there any ruins of castles nearly?
10. What can you tell about Raglan Castle?
11. Where is Arthur’s Stone?
12. Is Conway also a castle?
13. What is St. Mary’s Church famous for?
14. What is the highest mountain in England and Wales?
15. What town lies at its foot?
16. Why is Betws-y-Coed photographed, painted and sketched so often?
17. Why does Llandudno pursue a successful career according to the
text?
18. Can you name any of its sights?
19. Where does International Eisteddfod annually take place?
20. What is Eisteddfod in short?
21. Why do you think it is a popular Welsh festival?
B. Summarize your answers in written form and use it to make a report.
C. In 150–200 words describe any part of your country or festival
you like most.
By Natalya Predtechenskaya
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